Reflections & tales from a life of adventure faith & Family
I know it’s not a RTNX Race Report. i promise there are more coming. However i had a different experience this evening i want to share.
Being from NZ, one of the things i here the most, or most often is… “Why are you here in Georgia, when you come from such a beautiful place as NZ” or some sentence similar to that. I usually respond with something that is true, humorous and a little silly.
There are times though when i do feel a long way from home. Christmas is the obvious one. No America not Thanksgiving, because with the exception of Canada, the rest of the world doesn’t do that holiday, believe it or not. Other times when i am somewhere very different (like the Canadian wilderness) or doing something that has a lot of responsibility with it. for some reason those moments make me feel a long way from home.
Anyways… tonight i went to church with Robin where she is the minister. This week is Revival @ Friendship Presbyterian Church. Which for some denominations can mean completely different things. For Presbyterians (or humorously known as the ‘Frozen Chosen’) revival is somewhat subdued. And that’s ok, that’s how we roll. I went last night and tonight to revival.
Tonight however was a little different they had special music from the New Mt Calvary Missionary Baptist Church. This church is 100% African-American or Black. And Friendship PC is 100% white. That it shouldn’t make any difference and it doesn’t, and not that i am trying to make anything of that. Please don’t read into this that way.
Back to the music. The Mt Calvary people lead us in 3 songs. AND THEY SUNG THEIR LUNGS OUT!!!! amazing. But I tell you all this because of 2 reasons
As someone not from here, you hear, read and see stories about this rich black musical culture. And tonight i experienced out loud, raw, un-polluted, worshipful and very powerful and moving in a little country church and in a setting that could only have occurred there. An experience i was glad to be there for and for that moment proud the thankful to be in the south but also realizing i am a very long way from home.
This part of the report begins with us starting the lake paddle. This was expected to take between 3-5 hours and having had a few hours “sleep” we were feeling quite good. While it was still raining when we pushed off the shore the weather was improving. Peter with Chris and Me with Michelle. because i am the stronger paddler i often get to go with Michelle but that suits me, i like hanging out with her and we have a good time. We did get in a 2 canoe line with us at the rear so we could draft off each other.
There were 2 teams that set off about 20-30 minutes ahead of us and we soon found ourselves catching up to and over taking them. We were paddling well. This lake is in an old glacial formed valley and therefore all the lakes in this region are long and narrow. I heard that some were over 800ft deep. WOW.
The paddle passed relatively uneventfully with good time being made in perfect paddling conditions. We left the lake for a short paddle down a fast-moving river to the TA. We later heard that one team took 5 1/2 hours to complete the paddle. They had said no to taking sleep and paddling down the lake in the fierce rain and wind storm. No very smart, glad we took the rest so we could have better weather and a faster paddle. They said the waves were so big they had to paddle the shore line for fear of flipping. While we were able to paddle in a straight line.
We pass BRATS (UK Team) & a French team on the water. At the TA we prepped for what was the crux of the whole race the trek section through the famed Vahallas. A very remote mountain range in the Canadian Rockies. We heard more stories about this section during the reminder of the race and post pace than any other section and we too were about to embark on our own little adventure.
We got out of the TA in good time, about the same time as the French and slowly wound our way back up the lake this time obviously travelling on land, occasionally seeing the odd team padding towards us doing what we had been doing an hour or so earlier. After about an hour we turned inland up a valley crossing yet another “creek”- now raging torrent on continued snow melt. Thankful that we were crossing on a bridge. We trekked up the valley, on a trail at this point making our way to Lake Beatrice, passing several smaller just as beautiful lakes along the way. I was always struck by the volume of water in these creeks that would certainly sweep you away if you fell in or tried to cross. This also made me wonder just how much water was STILL flowing into these lakes!!!
We finally made it to Lake Beatrice after several hours, a little behind the French but ahead of Team BRATS. The trail ended at the lake and the race notes gave no indication of which way to traverse around the lake. While the left side was certainly shorter (as we could see where we need to go… UP) the right side of the lake looks like easier travel. So off we went us & BRATS, and the French electing to go the left side. This was prehaps the hardest travel of the entire race. We were moving at less than 1 mile an hour. As we climbed, jumped, crawled, skipped, shimmied, lunged…. insert adjective here__________ through the thick bush, forest and scrub. It was awful! i can only imagine the calories we were burning. Generally speaking we try to eat every hour to 90mins, but during the section we made sure we were eating every 45 minutes. At least the weather was good, but this is the mountains and anything can change.
At times we were following another team bushwhacking then other times i think we were following animal trails that would end as soon as they begun. Namely Grizzly Bear, appropriately discovered by the large pile of fresh poo we found. A few nervous moments, but hey what are you going to do. Say stop i want to go home. That’s one of the beauty’s of curses of Adventure Racing. You can stay “ok stop, i want to go home now” whenever you want to.
We kept traversing around the lake occasionally seeing the French across the large lake, thinking definitely chose the correct side. Only then to come around a corner and encounter a large, wide and fast-moving very cold river that needed to be crossed. Its early evening light is fading and we need to get out of here and at least make it up the side of that waterfall over there before we cannot see anything and get cliffed out. Get scenario huh.
Peter and i scouted up-stream quite a ways before we found what was the best solution. A slippery log, partially submerged on the other side by the fast-moving river. No way we would walk across this. So after some encouragement both teams started to scoot across one by one. Knowing the other side presented each of us with getting wet and potentially being swept away.
We ALL made it, a little wet, but made it.
By now it had rained several times and it was almost dark and we were wet and cold. However we did have our spirits raised by seeing a bald eagle check us out several times.
As we begun to scale the end of the valley i was very conscious of how cold i was. I have been cold in a race plenty of times, even to the point of shivering. However always ignored it because i know that as soon as i get moving i begin to generate some body heat and warm up… end of story. But this time i couldn’t get warm. Here we were on the side of some mountain going into our 3rd night with about 4-5 hours sleep and i couldn’t generate any body heat.
This saga ends with me, calling stop, i need to get warm, I’ve been cold before but not like this. The question is how does one get warm in this part of the world when its been raining. Easy you light a camp fire. No joke. The mountains are covered with these huge fir trees and they are so thick with branches and foliage etc that right at the base of the trunk its bone dry. Really it is. So we found big tree gathered dry limbs from other nearby fir trees and lit a fire. Soon we had a raging fire and were warming up nicely. It appears i wasnt the only one with a case of the chills. We huddled in our e-blankets around the fire warming up whilst sharing and eating food. There were 2 teams present still, us and BRATS. After a few hours we were all sufficiently warm and packed up to continue climbing knowing that once we left the warmth of the fire we needed to move quickly to keep that heat.
As we continued climbing up the waterfall we looked over our heads and recall a sight i will never forget. As we looked down the long valley we saw 3 or 4 other ‘camp fires’ from other teams that had succumbed to the cold and needed to stop and warm up. It was humorous to think that here we were in the Canadian Rockies, miles from ANYWHERE and there were fires all up and down this valley like it was a local camping spot. We laughed.
We eventually topped out and continued to traverse around several smaller lakes eventually being greeted by the dawn. We approached one lake and traversed around the right side again. Only to realize soon that we should have gone left and avoided climbing up another (yet more intimidating waterfall) by now it was too late to turn back, we would lose too much time. And so we began climbing again. This waterfall was very intimidating, and while we were ever in or on it we were close enough to see it power.
After this dangerous climb we topped out to cross what was now a gentle-looking river to be greeted by snow again. We were high enough to be back in the snow. At this point i should mention that there were several times in this race where I feel as though we did things that were bordering on dangerous and even negligent. Consider what little equipment we had to do what we did. There were a one or two other instances in the race later on.
We continued to climb and eventually made it to the next TA. The Ice Creek Lodge. http://www.icecreeklodge.com/ It was an oasis in the middle of no-where. So much no-where that there are no roads in here. you either hike in or take a helicopter. We were greeted with great hospitality and warm soup. This was the first TA where i was really tempted to stay ‘a little longer’. The last section was no joke and had shaken our nerve a little. But the Vahallas weren’t done with us yet. We still had to cross 2 high mountain passes but for now we were resting at the lodge. We stayed for about 1 hour, catching about 20mins of sleep before venturing out again. It was mid afternoon when we arrived there.
Thanks for continuing to read these reports.
As mentioned we swapped running shoes for bikes, not before making sure we ate and drank enough. I should mention at this time that the weather was still really favorable with a few threatening skies earlier in the day.
In adventure racing the longer the race and less sleep you get the more fatigued you become, in addition to this is ones’ susceptibility to feeling the heat and cold weather. Is common for me to get cold really easy in a race even if the temperature is still above freezing i can begin shivering really quickly mostly due to the fatigue that i am already racing. Over the years i have come to realize this about myself but tend to ignore it because i know that as soon as we get moving again and get the blood pumping i will be warm and ‘comfortable’ again. Well at least that’s my theory… more on this later.
We left the TA on foot, with our good friends Team WEDALI and immediately begin biking up a steep road. WEDALI stopped because their female team-mate was having some breathing/asthma problems., we kept going, up & up. Soon more clouds rolled in and this time the rain was for real. Jackets on & riding up this mountain in the rain, but relatively comfortable. Past another CP and eventually to the summit of this mountain by the same road. By now the rain had stopped and sun had come out. WEDALI didn’t catch up but we were joined by a race photographer as we leaped froged each other for the last hours biking to the summit of this mountain. He snapped our pic at the top as you can see here
From here we had sweet descent into the valley by a series of switch backs on the dirt road. We got up to some crazy fast speeds down here and it was very invigorating to be going fast for once and not slogging up hill or even pushing bikes.
At the bottom of the valley we crossed another full creek/river from all the snow melt still happening to ride through this somewhere between weird & creepy old mining town that had been abandoned but had several people (as we were told) trying to resurrect it. While we rode through in like 10 minutes it still wigged me out and maybe because i was very slept deprived i wasnt thinking straight but made me think of some sort of hollywood movie or old Twilight Zone episode.
Upon leaving this town we began yet another climb on our bikes bike Idaho Peak. this took several hours and was somewhere between late afternoon and early evening. As we got to the top of Idaho Peak and the next CP we could see more clouds rolling in. As we pushed our bikes to the summit and the wonderful greetings and cheers from race staff the rain started to fall again. From here we had to descend the (so-called) famous Wakefield Mountain Bike trail. Not sure what makes this trails famous but it is not because you get to go fast. This was prehaps one of the few times i had been scared on a mtb. The trail was single track, with mountain/hillside on one side … AND 1000’s of feet drop on the other. I have no photos to share because i was too scared keeping my eyes on the trail in the fading light and falling rain. But it was scary. i rode most of it with only one foot clipped into my pedal for fear of falling down the mountain.
Then, did i mention the rain. The rain turned into a downpour for like the next 7 hours including the beginning of the next section, paddling on the lake (more on that later). by now we were soaked to the skin, still up high and really cold. no place to go or shelter but just keep riding this really scary trail. We eventually got lower, still raining and easier trails but very cold. Chris & Michelle especially! The road flattened out and we road on a dirt road into a small town around 11pm.
Peter got a flat just before town, but decided to ride on it anyway, not the best thing to do but oh well. When we got to this little town we still had to find the TA, and rode through the streets using the maps to locate it. We did make an error when i rode all of us into someone back yard thinking it was the TA when really it was some locals having a big party with lots of noise and drinking. I had mistaken the noise for the sounds of a TA (and really it was 11pm on a monday night, why wouldn’t you think that) upon realizing our mistake we left to sadness of our ‘new friends’ and quickly found the right TA. Once here we were greeted by an over zealous race staff person who just had to get through his little speech about what we had to do here, & not do and blah blah blah, when all i was interested in was getting off my bike, getting our tents up and getting some hot food in Chris & Michelle. Unfortunately this race volunteer was trying to do his job but lacked a little flexibility and understanding at 11pm. Needless to say he& i didn’t exactly get along right away.
Don’t get me wrong, i love and appreciate race volunteers, I’ve done it myself (don’t like doing it, would much rather race) but they do an amazing job, through all sorts of weather, circumstances and responding to people.
We managed to get tents up, food cooked and eaten and quickly in our tents, albeit wet. Set the alarm for 2 hours and decided to get some rest/sleep. But not before eating our food and getting out of wet clothes in a brick bath house that a french team had taken over and made it difficult to move around in there, much to their dislike. Well shouldnt have claimed the only dry building for yourself and expect privacy then. Were the words i recall saying to them as i stepped over them trying to sleep several times. I mean really… sleeping next to a toilet, have some standards, i know you have a tent!!!
The rain kept falling and every time we were woken by the alarm we collectively decided to set it for “another hour”. Eventually committing to getting up, no matter what at 4pm to get ready to get on the lake to paddle. As the alarm went of that ‘final time’ it was hard to leave the comfort of my sleeping bag, knowing i was about to instantly get wet, but did so to dawn slowly arriving, which would be an encouragement to get going.
Part 3 coming soon, thanks for taking time to read all this.
So here it comes my reflections and race report from Raid the North Extreme (RTNX) not sure how many parts this report will have but do plan to drop some pics in here for you to see. However in looking at photos they sometimes don’t do it justice to the beauty and insane steepness of some roads we biked (or should i say pushed bikes up) and mountains.
Let me begin by framing this a little. This an adventure race, but also known more correctly as an expedition race. in that its over 3 days long. The goal as you may know or not is to move as a team (3M 1F) through the wilderness either running/trekking, mtn biking or canoeing/kayaking with a few other skills thrown in along the way. In most races there are lots of Checkpoints or CP’s to find and you move to an area to find the CP based on your navigation skills and maps etc.(finding the actual CP in any given area can be the trickiest part of the race) in getting there ones’ team uses few roads(most deemed out-of-bounds or there aren’t any) trails (mostly) and a little bit of bush whacking. Just straight out crashing through the bush, woods, or forest whatever you want to call it.
This race was none of the above. Once you got to the given area the CP was the easiest thing in the world to find. And even more so in this race they were ALL staffed by humans. Looking back now that was probably because of the risk and inherent dangers associated with this race. RTNX was more of a route finding race. which meant the challenge lay in JUST getting to the area where the CP was. As for bush whacking… this was about 80% of the race… which in human terms means
EXHAUSTING!!!!! there were times in this race when all teams were moving at less than 1 mile/hour because the bush/undergrowth etc was so thick. As for going over mountain passes of which we went over at least 3, there were no flagged routes, guides or nice trails to follow.
In short, this race was always meant to be bloody tough. and it was.
Race day dawned blue and clear in Kaslow a small town in BC. We had camper here the night before after being bused from Nelson where all pre race events, checks, test, festivities happened.
We left Kaslow on another bus to drive about an hour to the middle of nowwhere. there we meet our bike, transported the night before. Race started at 10am with a short flat section on a dirt road then a massive 1000m gain over just 15km. or STEEP. We covered this is about 3+ hours and transitioned on the side of the mountain from our bikes (to be transported away by vehicle to meet us at the next TA)
We got onto our feet for our first trekking section. by now we were travelling across the top of a mountain range then discovered a fast nasty descent into a valley below to travel along the valley floor to cross over the river and begin the ascent up another valley. This all sound nice and just flows of the keyboard. But i have to tell you that descent into the valley was some of the worst off camber bushwhacking i have ever done. All that elevation lost to then begin climbing up the previously mentioned valley. Some of these race directors are sick.
We thought we had a good line down the side of the mountain only to be slowed more and more by cliffs we needed to traverse around and thick thick bush. We did finally make it to the bottom and to our surprise we found an old logging road and so run off along it in the direction we needed to go. However thinking the whole time we had descended too early and really blew what had us starting that section in about 8th or 9th place. arrrggghhh. But oh how things can change in adventure racing.
We crossed a log over a raging river (the 1st of probably 100’s in this week) this region had experienced about 150% of its normal snow pack this winter and the snow melt was still in full swing.
We ascended the valley through skills of bushwhacking, crossing streams, rivers and following faint and short-lived animal trails. We were now working with our good South East friends Odyssey AR and WEDALI from Minnesota. The bush was continuing to get thick. And Odyssey decided to climb higher to get above the tree line for easier travel. We had a mini 3 team conference and WEDALI & our team agreed that was a very silly idea as it was snowy, rocky and probably covered with impassable cliffs. So we went our separate ways. Us & WEDALI stuck together. Ultimately Odyssey’s idea was a bad one and they cliffed out and had to come back, being the last team through the next CP.
We continued through the night, however we stopped for about a 1 hour nap around 3am knowing the sunrise is about 4.30am. We pushed up the valley and into dawn and eventually got to the bottom of the pass, and no more trees and bush to stop us moving slowly. We reached CP2 at the top of the pass at 10am
This photo is us approaching CP2. While you cannot see it. it is up to the right and back out of shot.
From here we descended the other side of the mountain range, to some spots of rain and very grey skies. they never materialized and we enjoyed some glissading down the snow to covered the ground in good time. From here we continued to run/trek to the next TA where wer swapped running shoes for our bikes, which had been transported there with our gear bins of welcome food, dry socks etc.
Part 2 soon…
Hey there folks
Currently sitting on a bus on my way back from Canada over to Spokane Wa and ultimately home.
Will write ALOT more in the coming days. The race was amazing definitely the most physical thing I have ever done but also the emotional side of a race like this too
And what makes it even sweeter is that we finished tied for 5th with Wedali who are some of or best friends in AR, and AR puts you through some intense things. Outside of World AR champs later this year if was the strongest field, so that makes this even sweeter
Hope you were able to follow us with Spot tracker, I’m sure it was 100% accurate all the time but when you consider where were are it’s very remote location…
My body is making me pay now and will do for many days. We have some amazing photos too & and will share
Some quicks stats
• started Sunday @ 10am crossed finish line Saturday around 7am
• total hrs slept (before thurs night… More on that later) around 5 hours
• elevation gained & lost cumulatively around 80,000ft
Now making our way back home, sleeping as much as I can and of course EATING like crazy yum yum
Looking forward to being home to see Robin and of course Cora
Hurry and wait is alive and well currently sitting waiting to load ALL our gear bins into a truck to take it somewhere bikes left this morning
Pouring over our 8 maps now looking at route choices etc I know one of the two paddles is 43mikes YIKES
Next we get bused to a remote location do more messing with gear and camp out tonight to start at 10am west coast time tomorrow
This might be the last post I make in a while. While the race doesn’t start for another 36 hrs I will put the phone away in the morning and won’t bust it out until sometime next weekend.
We had pre race meeting this evening and it was like the who’s who of adventure racing from around the world, reminded me of racing in Abu Dhabi or Costa Rica.
We only have 2 paddle sections but they could be epic long too. The briefing told us we were going to see some amazing scenery in parts of Canada that people don’t go to at all. They warned us to watch out for Grizzly bears, yes grizzly!!!
We have some tough climbing sections and apparently a zip line over a waterfall with our bikes. COOL!!!
They promise great race coverage with SPOT trackers so checkout http://www.raidthenorth.com
We are checkpointzero in case you forgot and team #5
Hope YOU have a great week, I promise to take lots of photos
Another challenge of AR is this… Waiting in airports for shuttles and team mates to arrive. Between flights being cancelled and computer glitches we are waiting in Spokane airport. We could be here for 4 hours while they catch up to us then drive 3 hours into Canada
Like I said the Challenges of AR
While sitting on the plane I had LOTS of time to think and with the busyness of summer haven’t done that in a while.
As my mind wondered I was entertaining thoughts about why adventure racing and initially there are always 2-3 reasons that role of the tongue if you were to ask me. And I can certainly articulate those to you at another time or face to face
However briefly those are
1) I get to eat anything and get away with it.
2) I love being out in the “wild” and moving through it, on it, over it and only using my own physical and mental resources (& team mates of course)
3) and the faith metaphors that are rampant out there
However today I would like to add to that list. This is play for me! As a child in my hometown of Leeston I would at any opportunity get on my bike and create some adventure either on my bike or use it to get to a place & create one. Riding country dirt roads, through the bush, near rivers or walking, running through the bush, along near or on rivers and creeks. All for no other reason than to play.
My mind would run wild with creativity and imagination creating make believe worlds of adventure, discovery, hunts, & even most boys specialty… War. This would include making guns out of found perfect looking “guns”, climbing trees to heights that would freak out any adult now.
Making scenarios either by myself or with friends that would have us doing nothing more than….
PLAY!
The unstructured nature or it made it work. The unplanned location, destination and ending made it invigorating. The no two experiences the same opportunities made it real. Of course at the time I had no idea what I was doing mentally and how it would shape me, or no idea what I was doing physically and how it would create a thirst to do activities that would be slightly risky. Not that risk was the goal, it wasn’t seen as that and it certainly wasn’t created for that purpose.
It was seen (on my part) as normal behavior! Furthermore the words I am writing to describe these experiences don’t really do it justice either. Words cannot convey the fun I had at play. I would just do it, as saw it as normal as getting dressed in the morning.
I do remember as a child looking at adults at times and thinking “when do they play?” or when do they get to ride their bikes and pretend it was a horse in the wild west or a police motorcycle chasing someone. I wondered regularly and knew (not that I was happy about this) that adults often worked until 5 or 6pm and thought YIKES!!! When will they get to play. I knew this also from riding my bike (of course) to the bus stop around 6pm most evenings to meet my Dad as he got off the bus outside the RSA and walking home with him (thanks for taking the bus Dad so I could come meet you off the bus)
All this leads me to now understand (if only a little because of my recent enlightenment) that I need to add a 4th reason to my reasons I adventure race…
4) Because it’s play, and I like to play outside, in the bush/woods, on my bike, around, in, on rivers creeks etc
While it’s structured in a start & finish line what goes on in-between is in many ways PLAY
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